Dog stuck in crate due to Advantage spot-on flea treatment.

Dhaliwal said he plans to write a report on the incident and submit it to a professional journal in hopes of spreading the word. "This is something that everyone needs to know," he said.

October 7, 2009
By: Edie Lau
For The VIN News Service

A veterinarian presented with a peculiar case of a poodle stuck in its crate last week traced the problem to the pet's spot-on flea treatment.

Residue from the product Advantage, which was applied between the poodle's shoulders, somehow came in contact with the plastic base of the animal's crate, dissolving the plastic and causing it to adhere to the dog's belly.

When the dog wouldn't come out of its crate the next morning, its concerned owner brought the dog, crate and all, to Dr. Tej Dhaliwal of North Town Veterinary Hospital in Ontario, Canada. Following two hours of sleuthing, Dhaliwal concluded that benzyl alcohol, an inactive ingredient in Advantage, was to blame.

Bayer Animal Health, maker of Advantage, acknowledged that the flea treatment was the likely culprit and offered to pay the owner's veterinary bill, compensate him for loss of salary and replace the crate, Dhaliwal said.

Bob Walker, a spokesman for Bayer in the United States, confirmed that Advantage contains benzyl alcohol, which reacts with certain plastics. He said he consulted with colleagues in veterinary services and was told, "We know it can happen, but we've never seen it."

Walker said a lead veterinarian in the department thought that most of the veterinary community was aware of the potential for the product to react with plastic. Walker said that he personally had not heard of such a thing before. He added, "My counsel would be, if you're not aware, you need to be aware."

The incident certainly surprised Dhaliwal, a practitioner for 13 years, who posted his experience in an online discussion board of the Veterinary Information Network (VIN). Some veterinarians said they were familiar with the potential for the product to damage plastic, but many were astonished by the news.

Dhaliwal said the owner of the dog, a 15-year-old poodle mix, had applied Advantage to the dog before bedtime. He speculated that the dog rolled over in the crate before the liquid pesticide dried. Presumably, residue of the product made contact with the plastic floor of the crate, causing the plastic to dissolve and "glue" the dog in place overnight.

Dhaliwal noted that the dog had been unable to eat, drink or relieve itself for 15 hours by the time he managed to free it with a tool normally used to scrape excess plaster from drywall.

The white dog had a patch of dark gray plastic about 6 inches by 4 inches stuck to its fur. Following the advice of representatives at Bayer, Dhaliwal said, he removed the remaining plastic using the contents of another two tubes of Advantage. Once freed, the dog was fine.

From the start, the dog's owner suspected that the Advantage was to blame, Dhaliwal said. The veterinarian figured some chemical was involved but wasn't sure what. At first, he applied regular alcohol to the plastic base, to no effect. Then he tried a tube of Advantage. The plastic liquified almost instantly, and his gloved hand stuck to the plastic.

Photographs snapped with his iPhone show a puddle of liquid across the bottom of the crate. Dhaliwal said one tube containing .5 cc of product covered half the crate base; he speculated that the plastic, as it dissolved, perpetuated the chemical reaction.

According to a Material Data Safety Sheet for benzyl alcohol posted at http://www.sciencelab.com/, the compound "can extract and dissolve polystyrene plastic and may attack other plastics."

The chemical is in wide use, found in hundreds of cosmetic formulations including baby toiletries, mascaras, hair dyes and skin care products, according to the article "Benzyl Alcohol Allergy: Importance of Patch Testing Personal Products," published Feb. 15, 2006, in the journal Dermatitis.

Its function in topical preparations is as a preservative, solvent, anesthetic and/or to decrease viscosity, the article states.

Walker at Bayer said the company veterinarian he consulted speculated that benzyl alcohol is found in a variety of spot-on flea treatments besides Advantage. However, it's not possible to determine which products contain the compound by reading their labels, as manufacturers are not required to list inactive ingredients.

Dale Kemery, a spokesman for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), which regulates pesticides including spot-on pet parasiticides, said the agency is considering a new rule to require that manufacturers disclose pesticides' inert ingredients.

"This increased transparency will assist consumers and users of pesticides in making informed decisions and will better protect public health and the environment," Kemery said by e-mail. "The Agency anticipates publishing an Advance Notice of Proposed Rulemaking in the Federal Register within the next few months."

Kemery also encouraged anyone aware of adverse reactions with an EPA-registered product to report the matter to the manufacturer and directly to EPA.

"Manufacturers of pesticide products are required to report to EPA information they receive about potential adverse effects of their products, but reporting to the EPA directly is beneficial because the data we receive from the manufacturers is aggregated by severity category, and the report of an individual incident that we receive directly may provide more details initially that could lead to a follow-up by EPA with the manufacturer," Kemery said.

Walker said Bayer officials in Canada examined the lot of Advantage used on the dog to check whether it contained an abnormally high concentration of benzyl alcohol but found nothing unusual.

Dhaliwal complimented Bayer for taking responsibility right away. "Obviously, this is something of ongoing concern," he added.

He said he plans to write a report on the incident and submit it to a professional journal in hopes of spreading the word. "This is something that everyone needs to know," he said.

Cats not using litter box??? Spay or Neuter Your Pets

Why is it that some cats do NOT use the box? Why for example do they sometimes go in the most inappropriate locations ... like on your bed?

When cats urinate outside of the litter box it is called "inappropriate urination". This is a common medical phrase that is used when there is no known reason for the behavior.

WHY do cats do this? That's what cat owners with this problem really want to know.

Some cats urinate outside the litter box for different reasons.

Sometimes it is behavioral. For example, they want to mark territory, they like the texture of the surface they are urinating on, the litter box is dirty, the box is in a scary location or otherwise unappealing, or it could be because of an underlying medical problem. There is often no way to determine whether the problem is behavioral by just looking at your cat or finding the urine. But if there is any evidence of blood that is a common sign that the problem is indeed medical, not behavioral.

So, getting back to the question of, "Why did my cat urinate on the bed?", the answer is - it depends. It could be a medical problem, litter box aversion or a behavioral marking problem.

The best thing to do is to have your cat evaluated by your veterinarian. A simple urine test will often determine the presence of a medical condition that may be causing your cat's problem.

Once you know if there is an underlying medical problem, you either treat it or work to ensure that your litter box culture is the best it can be in your home. Some cats will use the litter box better when it is clean and odor-free

Reasons To Spay Or Neuter Your Pets

Spaying a female before the first heat greatly reduces the risk of mammary cancer, which is usually fatal. It is not beneficial for an animal to go through one heat cycle, or to have one litter.
Neutering reduces aggression; it does not make an animal fearful or fat or lazy.
Spayed and neutered animals are less likely to run off and fight.
Animals that don't fight don't get injured – they also don't get fatal diseases such as FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus – Feline AIDS) which is spread by bites.
If your female dog or cat is spayed, the neighborhood males and strays won’t park outside your house, barking or yowling.
Male cats neutered before sexual maturity very rarely spray – a form of territory marking. If your unneutered cat is spraying, neutering provides the best chance of stopping the behavior.
Neutered males don’t have that stinky tom-cat smell or strong-smelling urine.

Information fromPurina

Cats and the need for water

Monday July 20, 2009


	Do Cats Drink More from Certain Bowls or Fountains?

If you could do only ONE thing to make your cat healthier, it would be getting him to drink more water. Water is essential for life. Next to oxygen, water is the most important nutrient in your cat's body. It helps digest food, absorb nutrients, flush waste and control body temperature.

Cats can go for days without food. They can lose up to 40 percent of their body weight and survive, but with only a 10 percent water loss, bodily functions shut down causing serious illness. A 15 percent loss of water will kill a cat.

Most cats don't drink enough water. And getting them to drink more isn't easy. But it can be done ... if you get creative!

Nutritionists get sick cats to eat by making it more appealing. To find out what the cat likes most, they try three things - different foods, different bowls and different locations.

That makes sense. It's definitely true for people. Wouldn't you rather have an icy cold soda with lots of "fizz" instead of one that's flat, warm and watered down? It tastes better. Do you like to use your favorite coffee mug because of its shape and size? Would you rather eat in front of the TV or at the table? We all have our own preferences, and so does your cat.

Find out what kind of "drinkware" your cat prefers. Does he like a bowl or a plate? What size works best? What texture does he like ... ceramic, plastic or stainless steel?

Next, find a way to make the whole "water drinking" experience more fun. Turn it into a game. Put out multiple bowls of water throughout the house for your cat to find. Make sure to put some in his favorite places.

Finally, make the water taste as good as possible. (Remember, nobody wants a warm flat soda.) It should always be fresh and cool. Change the water in each bowl several times a day. Try refreshing between refills with an ice cube. Try filtered water. Removing impurities improves the taste. A pet fountain is a great way to make your cat's water taste better. It filters the water to cool it and remove impurities. And since the water is constantly moving, it stays fresh.

As a rule, cats need about one ounce of water a day for every pound of body weight. That means a 9-pound cat needs 9 ounces of water a day (about two quarts per week) to stay healthy.

Get your cat to drink water by making it more appealing. It will help keep your cat healthy.

http://cs88.clearspring.com/u/489ccd15b6508149/4a9eb81daa77a84a

How to tell if your cat is sick

hThese are a few good sites to check out that might be of help, and even print out and put were it is handy to look at when your feeling there is a chance of your cat is not feeling well.

http://www.petplace.com/cats/guide-to-cat-symptoms/page1.aspx

http://www.petplace.com/cat-health.aspx

http://www.cat-health-behavior.com/sick-cat-care.html

How to tell if your dog is sick

These are a few good sites to check out that might be of help, and even print out and put were it is handy to look at when your feeling there is a chance of your dog is not feeling well.

www.petplace.com/dogs/show-to-tell-if-your-dog-is-ill/page1.aspx

http://dogs.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Sick_Dog_Symtomss

Parvovirus better known as Parvo

Parvovirus

Parvovirus is a viral disease of dogs. It affects puppies much more frequently than it affects adult dogs. The virus likes to grow in rapidly dividing cells. The intestinal lining has the biggest concentration of rapidly dividing cells in a puppy's body. The virus attacks and kills these cells, causing diarrhea (often bloody), depression and suppression of white blood cells -- which come from another group of rapidly dividing cells. In very young puppies it can infect the heart muscle and lead to "sudden" death.

Symptoms
Symptoms usually begin with a high fever, lethargy, depression, and loss of appetite. Secondary symptoms appear as severe gastrointestinal distress, such as vomiting and bloody diarrhea. In many cases, dehydration, shock, and death follow. Parvovirus is characterized by severe, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, high fever and lethargy. The diarrhea is particularly foul smelling and is sometimes yellow in color. Parvo can also attack a dog's heart causing congestive heart failure. This complication can occur months or years after an apparent recovery from the intestinal form of the disease. Puppies who survive parvo infection usually remain somewhat unhealthy and weak for life.

Treatment
Treatment generally consists of IV or sub-cutaneous fluids and antibiotics. As there is no cure for any virus, treatment for parvo is mostly that of supporting the different systems in the body during the course of the disease. This includes giving fluids, regulating electrolyte levels, controlling body temperature and giving blood transfusions when necessary.

Vaccination

Parvovirus is probably the most common viral illness of dogs at the present time. It is much more common in puppies than it is in adult dogs. It can be very hard to successfully vaccinate a puppy for this disease because the antibody protection the puppy acquires from its mother can interfere with vaccination. Many vets recommend vaccinating puppies every three to four weeks for this virus starting at 6 weeks of age and continuing until they are at least 16 weeks of age and preferably 20 weeks of age.

Transmittal

Canine parvovirus is carried by dogs. It can last a long time in the environment, perhaps as long as 9 months or longer. Generally, it takes 7-10 days from the time of exposure for dogs and puppies to start showing symptoms and to test positive for parvo. Parvo is highly contagious to unprotected dogs, and the virus can remain infectious in ground contaminated with fecal material for five months or more.

The ease with which infection with Parvo can occur in any unvaccinated dog must be stressed. Parvo can be brought home to your dog on shoes, hands and even car tires. It can live for many months outside the animal. Any areas that are thought to be contaminated with parvo should be thoroughly washed with chlorine bleach diluted 1 ounce per quart of water.

Dogs and puppies can contract parvo even if they never leave their yards. It is excreted in the feces of infected dogs, and if someone -- human, dog, bird, etc. -- steps in (or otherwise comes in contact with) the excrement, the possibility for contamination is great. Some people speculate that birds invading a dog's food dish can deposit the parvovirus there. If you think you may have come in contact with parvovirus, a strong solution of bleach and water does kill the virus, so you can wash your shoes and clothes, even your hands with it, to reduce the risk of infecting your dog.

FIRST AID FOR DOGS

Your dog may be your best friend and docile as a lamb but when frightened and in pain he may not recognize you. Any time you are handling an injured or panic-stricken animal you should use some means of restraint to keep him from biting while you try to help him. The "emergency muzzle" or mouth-tie is the easiest way. Use a bandage or strip of cloth two or more feet long. Make a large loop by tying a loose knot in the middle of the bandage or cloth. Hold the ends up, one in each hand. Slip the loop over the dog's muzzle and lower jaw, just behind his nose. Then quickly tighten the loop so the dog can't open his mouth. Next, tie the ends under the lower jaw. Make a knot there and bring the ends back on each side of his face under the ears. Tie the ends togethter behind the ears at the back of the head. In the case of short-faced dogs, the tie around the nose should be kept from interfering with their breathing. After trying both ends behind the dog's head, take one end and bring it back over his head, and tie to the remaining end. If the dog tries to pull off the muzzle with his paws, tie his front feet together. Because a dog perspires through his tongue, do not leave the mouth-tie on any longer than necessary. Small or short-faced dogs can be prevented from biting by wrappong them in a blanket, coat, or large towel, and covering the head.

CARRYING AN INJURED DOG

If you are alone and have to carry a large dog, stoop down with your back towards the dog and put him on your shoulders, holding his feet in front. The dog should be muzzled, if conscious. or in his pain and confusion, he may try to bite your face. However, a flat surface, such as a door or couple of large boards fastened together to make a stretcher is by far the best method of transporting an injured dog. Other items can also make use of a stretcher is a blanket, pup tent, or even a coat. In fact, any strong cloth can serve very well as a stretcher, with knots tied in each corner and a strong branch or pole inserted in the knots on each side. You must, though, have a companion to help by holding one side while you hold the opposite side, keeping the surface taut. Try not to change the dog's position when sliding him on a stretcher.

GIVING FIRST AID FOR......

SEVERE TRAUMA

Dogs that have suffered severe trauma, i.e. dogs struck by a car, are frequently unconscious or in severe shock. Be sure that the air passages (nose, mouth and pharynx) are free of saliva, discharges or any other substance and the head and neck are extended so the dog can breath.

SHOCK

A state of shock may follow any injury or severe fright. The dog may be completely limp and weak or in a condition of nervous excitement. The symptoms of shock are weak pulse and shallow breathing. The eyes will have a "glassy" look due to dilation of the pupils and usually the gums are pale. These signs indicate impending failure of the circulatory system. Keep the dog as quiet as possible. Avoid noise or talk that might prompt him to try to move. In cool weather, cover him with a blanket or coat to keep his body warm and at an even temperature. A dog in shock should be taken to a veterinarian as soon as possible since the administration of intravenous fluids and drugs may mean the difference between life and death. Prompt veterinary care is essential.

INTERNAL BLEEDING

Even if there is no apparent injury after an accident a dog may be hurt internally. If he is weak and limp and his gums are pale grey in color you can be fairly sure that he is hemorrhaging internally and will die if he doesn't get veterinary treatment as soon as possible. Keep him as quiet as possible as carry him carefully. If there is bleeding from the nose but no apparent damage to the nostrils, it may mean a head injury. If there is bleeding from the mouth, inspect his tongue and inside of his mouth for cuts. Even when there is no immediate sign of internal bleeding, a prompt vet examination is very important.

SPRAINS

Sprains and other injuries to muscles and ligaments often are hard to distinguish from broken bones. The affected area is swollen and tender. Emergency treatment consists of keeping the dog quiet, applying an emergency splint if convenient and taking him to the veterinarian as quickly as possible and with as little movement as possible.

BURNS

For a small burn caused by fire or heat, a pain killing household burn remedy may be used. If the burn is caused by an acid, wash the area liberally with warm tap water and apply a solution of baking soda. If the dog was scalded by boiling water, douse liberally with cold water immediately and if the burn was caused by caustic, use vinegar. Seek professional help immediately for any burn more severe than a small spot and keep the area from being contaminated.

POISONING

A dog can poisoned by anything fom rodent bait to garbage. Symptoms are retching, pain, trembling and sometimes convulsions. Speed is imperative. If you know the dog has swallowed an acid, alkali, gas, or kerosene, do not induce vomiting. Give milk to dilute the poison, and get him to the vet immediately. Otherwise, force the dog to vomit by giving him equal parts of hydrogen peroxide and water by the lip pocket method, about 2 tablespoons for each 10 lbs. of his weight; or use a strong salt solution (4-6 teaspoonsful to a glass of water); or put a couple of teaspoons of salt on the back of his tongue. After he has emptied his stomach, give him mild to dilute the residual poison, and rush him to your veterinarian. Take the container of the toxic agent and some of the vomitus with you to the vet; exact knowledge of the toxic agent and the amount ingested will be most helpful in assessing the severity of the intoxication. Some poisons cannot be given first aid treatment at home, nor shuld an attempt be made to do so. These include strychnine, often used in rat poisons, usually characterized by the dog's becoming rigid. The dog may have to spend many hours under veterinary supervision before the danger is past. Any form of stimulation may be harmful and first aid, therefore, may only further endanger him. Immediate veterinary care is essential.

DO NOT ADMINISTER FIRST AID IF DOG IS RIGID

SEIZURES

A dog may run or stand quietly immediately prior to a seizure. When he falls, gently restrain him with a blanket or coat. Do not muzzle him or put anything in his mouth. Keep him quiet; in fact leave him alone for a few minutes. When he has temporarily recovered, take him to the vet.

FOREIGN OBJECTS

Sometimes a dog swallows a stick, a stone or a sliver of bone which lodges in his throat. He will cough and choke, paw at his mouth and shake his head. Open his mouth and look inside...at his tongue, on top and underneath; at his gums and teeth, especially at the roof of this mouth across which a short piece of bone or stick can be lodged. Pull his tongue out, holding it with a handkerchief for a better grip, and look down his throat. If you see the oject and it isn't too deeply imbedded, pull it out with your fingers or tweezers. If it is embedded deeply, the veterinarian will have to get it out. If the object has gone past his throat, it's best to let your veterinarian decide on the method of treatment. Persistent vomiting is the cardinal symptom of a foreign body lodged in the intestinal tract. Contact a vet without delay.

SKUNKS

Inquisitive dogs and those that overestimate their prowess in battle are always getting sprayed by skunks. First, was the dog's eyes well with plain warm water and apply drops of warm olive oil to the eyes. This relieves the stinging caused by the spray. The time-honored method of removing dkunk odar from a dog's coat is washing him in tomato juice, followed by a soap and water bath. It may not counteract the odor entirely but it will help. Diluted lemon juice also cuts the odor.

APPLYING A PRESSURE BANDAGE

Place a thick layer of sterile gauze directly over the wound and wind a bandage tighly over the injured area. Although some blood may discolor it, the bandage should be tight enough so that blood does not drip through it. Remove it every 15 or 20 minutes so as not to cause undue swelling beneath and replace if bleeding has not stopped. Do not apply cotton batting to a wound. It will stick to the area and may cause contamination. On an injured foot, the pressure bandage may be left on longer, a half hour or so. Take the dog to a veterinarian as soon as possible.

PILLS, CAPSULES: Put the palm of your hand over the dog's muzzle with your fingers on one side of his jaw, your thumb on the other. Press his lips hard against and in under his teeth. At the same time, use your other hand to pull down his lower jaw and drop the pill or capsule as far down over his tongue and toward his throat. Quickly close the dog's mouth and hold it shut until he swallows. Usually pinching his nostrils closed at the same time will insure swallowing but watch a few moments afterwards to make sure he doesn't spit out the pill.

GIVING MEDICINE

LIQUIDS: Use the lip pocket method to give liquids to a dog that cannot drink from a dish or that must be forced to take liquid medicine. Hold the dog's head up. Put your fingers in the side of this mouth at the corner and pull out the lower lip to form a pocket. Then pour or spoon the liquid into this pocket, keeping the dog's head up. The liquid will run between his teeth and back so that he swallowsit. Plastic vials in which pills are dispensed by the druggist are ideal for pouring liquids by the lip pocket method, as is a clean, unbreakable syringe without the needle.

BLEEDING

Wash superficial skin injuries with antiseptic soap and water and then apply and antiseptic medication. Clip hair away from the injury before treating. If the wound is jagged or gaping put gauze over it, holding it in place with adhesive tape and get the dog to a veterinarian for stitches that may be needed.

SEVERE OR DEEP CUTS

If an artery has been severed the blood will be bright red and flow irregularly, in time with the heart beat. Blood from a vein will be a darker red and flow evenly. To stop bleeding from an artery, apply pressure between the heart and the wound so as little blood as possible can run out. To stop bleeding from a cut vein, apply pressure below the wound. Remember to release every 15 minutes or so. When the bleeding has been controlled, cut away any hair surrounding the injury, wash the area with clean water and cover it with gauze, then cotton (do not place cotton directly over an injury) and secure with a bandage. Take the dog to a veteriarian promptly for examination and further treatment.

BROKEN BONES

Usually self-evident; intense pain and inability to stand or use the leg or legs are indiactions of fractures. In a compound fracture, the bone protrudes through the skin. DO NOT TRY TO SET IT. If a leg is broken, keep it in position as well as you can. If a broken bone is present in the lower part of a limb, allowing the foot and lower limb to dangle, apply a temporary splint of wood, bandage, and tape if this can be accomplished without further injury to the soft tissues at the site of the fracture. If the pelvic area, shoulder blade or rib cage is affected, do not try to bandage. Keep the dog as immobile as possible and put him on a stretcher for the trip to the veterinarian.

DISLOCATIONS

These are most frequent in the hip, knee, toe, and jaw. There is loss of movement and swelling. The affected bone may be held unnaturally. Do not attempt to replace it as you may cause additional damage to the surrounding tissues. Apply cold compresses to relieve pain and take the dog to the veterinarian. The sooner the joint is reset, the less severe the after-effects will be. Prolonged delay may make it impossible to reset by manipulation.

HEATSTROKE

This not only happens when a dog is exposed to the sun overlong or exercised hard in hot humid weather but often when a dog is left in a car or small building with no air circulation during hot, humid, sunny days. Symptoms are lying prone and breathing with difficulty. To save his life, reduce his body temperature immediately by placing him in a tub filled with cold water or by turning the hose on him. Take the dog to the vet for any additional treatment that may be necessary; heatstroke causes severe stress.

DROWNING

All dogs can swim but some aren't proficient and even the strongest swimmer can drown if he becomes exhausted. A dog may fall or get into a steep-sided pond or a swimming pool where he can find no foothold to pull himself out. To revive, first hold the dog up by his hind legs at the hocks to get excess water out of his lungs. Then give artificial respiration. Lay him on his side, extend his head and neck and pull the tongue forward. Then push down on his rib cage, releasing the pressure rhythmically every four or five seconds. If you use a cupped hand you can give "mouth-to-nose" respiration. Keep it up with regularity. As long as there is a heart beat there is hope. Then wrap him in a blanket or coat to keep him warm and take him to the vet for further treatment. This, too, has caused severe stress on the dog's respiratory system.

EYES

For inflammation, cuts and scratches, wash eyes with an eye lotion or boric acid solution; if neither are available use warm tap water. Dry eyes gently with gauze or a soft cloth. If available, apply eye ointment. See your vet for further treatment.

PORCUPINE QUILLS

Hunting dogs or dogs on vacation in the country can get into all kinds of trouble. The porcupine is one enemy. If at all possible take your dog to a vet immediately for attention. Porpupine quills tend to work their way deeper into tissue as time goes on. If vet help is not feasible every effort should be made to remove the quills as soon as possible. The quills should be worked out gradually, not yanked out. It make take two people to hold the dog as this is a painful ordeal for him. If you are alone, grip the dog between your legs, as each movement he makes may work the barbs in deeper. Before you start to remove the quills, cut off the tips at an angle. This releases the pressure and makes them easier to remove. Softening the quills by applying vinegar also makes them easier to remove. Use a pair of pliers and slowly twist out each quill, starting with those in the chest area as they may work through the skin into the vital organs. Then pull out those around the face. Put any standard antiseptic into the wounds. But as soon as you can, get the dog to a veterinarian. He will put the dog under an anesthetic to complete that would otherwise be a long and painful process.

FISH HOOKS

Careless people leave fish hooks around on shore or docks and dogs sometimes get them in their feet or mouths. Witha pair of pliers, cut off the barbed end of the hook so it can be pulled through, or, if more convenient, cut off the eye end so that you don't have to pull the barb back through the skin. apply antiseptic and gauze to the wound.

TERRITORIAL/PROTECTIVE AGGRESSION

Most owners report that their dogs bark or run to the door or perphery of the yard when an unfamiliar person or dog approaches.Usually, these dogs only signal the approach of a strangerand do not threaten aggressivly. Such behavior may not pose a problem. Some dogs,however,bark threateningly,growl, and/or lunge at strangers. They may calm down after the visitor has entered the home or continue to watch the person and theaten again if the person reenters a room, moves quickly, or approaches the owner. These behaviors usually begin after the dog is one year of age.

Its not unusual for a dog to wag its tail while it threatens a stranger. A wagging tail is a greating signal,but when combined with threats, it indicates that the dog is ambivalent about the situation. The dog is giving mixed signals consisting of both threat and greeting. Ambivalent signals are common among animals and are not abnormal. A wagging tail, however, does not mean that the dog will not bite; it is prudent to pay attention to all that the dog is doing.

Some dogs esculate territorial/protective behavior from barking and wagging their tails to serious threats, such as growling, snapping at,and biting strangers. It is unsafe to assume that dogs that " only threaten at the door" will always calm down after the visitor enters, nor is it safe to assume that dogs that "only bark" threateningly will not some way esculate their threats.

Confining a Territorial/Protective dog when strangers visit reduces the danger of injury, but does not change the dogs behavior towards strangers. Allowing a leashed dog to continue barking,growling, or lunging at a stranger is likely to worsen the problem. Attack-training such a dog in order to gain control of the aggressive behavior is unnecessary, illogical, and could be dangerous.It is more appropriate to work directly on conditioning the dog to inhibit its aggressive tendencies.

Many dogs can be conditioned gradually to greet strangers in a relaxed and friendly manner when the owner is present. It is generally more effective to teach the dog a " right response" at the door than it is only to correct or punish the wrong one. Some right responses include sitting or lying down, quieting on command, and assuming a generally relaxed attitude. Ofetn, the only way to get the right responce is to set up a situation whereby an approaching stranger does not elicit the aggressive response. The first step is to teach the dog to make the right resopnse reliably in the absence of strangers. Then, the dog can be taught to do this when the doorbell rings or there is a knock on the door. Sometimes, a high-quality tape recording of these sounds or family members and neighbors can be helpful in this training. Then, the dog can be taught over many sessions to sit, lie down, or relax when each of the following events occur: the door opens just a little, a stranger is in view directly behind a partially open door, a stranger is seen at a distance through the doorway, and then finally a stranger approches the house and then enters and moves about the home. Eventually the dog will be nonaggressive to the normal approach,knocking,entrance and movement of strangers. For safety reasons it might be necessary to have the dog on a leash or muzzled while practicing some of these procedures. Depending on the severity of th problem and the owner's capabilities , professional assistance may be necessary.

Sometimes, if a dog's level of aggression is low, an aversive stimulus, such as a loud noise, may interrupt or inhibit the barking and allow the owner to reward nonaggressive behavior. If the dog's level of aggressive is high, a loud noise is not likely to be effective and may even cause the dog to become more aggressive. Owners should be aware that physical punishment may cause the dog to direct its aggression toward them.

Introducing Your Dog To Your New Baby

Most dogs are curious about infants. This is particularly true because if they have had little exposure to infants or a long time has elasped since it has seen a baby. Observe your dogs reaction around other babies, either in your home, on the street, or in other people's homes. You should be aware of the typical reactions and take any precautions that are necessary. But take all the safety precautions possible, regardless of your dog's previous encounters with babies. Babies can get accidently hurt as a dog attempts to play with or investigate the infant. An extremely active dog that cannot be well controlled by its owner could get also accidently injure a baby. For various reasons, most problems between a dog and a child does not start until the child reaches the crawling and walking stages.

These Suggestions Might Help You To Introduce Dogs To Babies

1. Get Ready for the Arrival!!!!!!

You need to prepare months before the baby arrives. If your dog does not know the basic training(sit,stay,lie down, or come) it should be taught to do so. Practice obedience exercises with the dog. If you do have experience with training then do it at home, or it would be best to take it to a good humane training class.